Specific Subject Tips
Animals
- shutter speed > 250
- make sure at least one eye is in focus
- panning - 1/30 or 1/60
- single focus point unless flying birds, then all points
- use burst modespot metering, use exposure compensation button (+/-)
- use a blind
- scenic (animal + environment) vs closeup (animal only) vs portrait (head)
- Sunrise / Sunset lighting best 30 min before and after sun comes up/goes down
Cloudy
- f/8, 1/125
Fireworks & Lightning
- shutter < 30
Ghost
- shutter >2.5 sec
Landscape
- 20-70mm
Long Exposure
- on tripod, use leash
- don’t point camera at sun for long periods on manual - may damage sensor
Macro
- ring light
- spray leaves & spiderwebs with water in spray bottle
- f/16 max
- copy work - longer lens better, sensor parallel to artwork, lowest ISO possible, if refection problematic, put up black board with hole for lens cut out
- use SLR focus lock : after pushing halfway, switch to manual
Mechanical Action
- shutter speed > 500
Ocean / Surfing / Sports
- low tide so sand is wet
- surf - shutter 650-800
- sports stop action >250
Portraits
- blur background
- people - put eye line 1/3 down from top; don’t crop frame on a joint
- make sure eyes are sharp
Star effect on Lights
- smaller aperture w/ long exposure
Star Trails
- 28mm including rock/tree & horizon
- 35mm or 50mm including rock/tree & pole
- f/4 or f/5.6
- telephoto lens @ pole 20-30 min
- ISO 100
- interrupt star trails by holding black cardboard in front of lens
- amp up to f/16 to have visible stars to one end
Still Life
- Glass Objects
- use black background/tablecloth to see edges strong
- set us translucent barrier between lights and glass object
- Jewelry
Sunny
- f/16, 1/250
- add 2 stops if under shade in bright location
Travel
- figure out points of interest to photograph
- pick up local newspapers to help if you are going to produce article with pictures
- cityscapes & architecture
- highest point in major cities
- street festivals, markets, street life
- traditional dress opportunities
- natural settings, wilderness
- landscapes
Water
- waterfall - shutter < 1/30
- running water < 1/8
- to keep liquid bubbly, add salt
- droplets - add glycerin
Photoshop
Suggested Workflow
- open photo in bridge
- File -> File info -> Description tab
- add title, author, keywords
- add copyright - Mac option-G; Microsoft Ctl Alt C; Alt+0169
- open in camera raw
- click on link under photo
- Space : sRGB
- Size : choose based on preference
- Resolution: see below
- Basic tab
- rotate image if necessary
- straighten image
- use ‘Recovery’ to dissolve ‘blinkies’
- crop
- adjust exposure
- adjust saturation
- adjust temperature
- Detail tab
- sharpen: see below
- open in photoshop if necessary
- levels adjustment (ctl-L) see below
- hold white end, ALT-drag until see something other than black, pull back a bit & release
- don’t adjust if they have something all the way across
- curves adjustment (clt-M)
- use to modify colors vs levels - more points to tweak
- leave endpoints alone, click on area to affect, pull curve in the middle to bow line
- color correction
- repair image defects - clone tool, spot healing
- apply filters
- levels adjustment (ctl-L) see below
- click on link under photo
- File -> File info -> Description tab
Resolution
- screen resolution - 72 ppi
- print resolution - 300 ppi
- use bicubic sharper to make smaller
- use bicubic smoother to make larger
Sharpening
- start with 500% amount, 1.5 radius, 0 threshold
- adjust radius until it looks good - .5 -> 1.5
- back off amount - 200 -> 300
- fine tune threshold
Histogram
- want lots of midtones
- flattening out ends
- if heightened on either end - adjust shutter to compensate
Contrast
- if too much, yellow filter
Warp
- puppet tool to warp elements
- use to adjust for wide angle lens distortion
- logo creation - smush and stretch letters
- make letter using text tool
- layer -> ratserize -> layer
- edit -> transform -> warp
Color Profile
- RGB = imaging
- CMYK = printing
- Adobe 1998 RGB color space broader than sRGB
Equipment
General
- main camera body
- battery charged
- card formatted and in camera
- exposure mode set (center, spot, matrix)
- ISO set (lowest)
- auto focus turned on
- motor drive set (fastest, burst mode)
- focus point set (single)
- lens and sensor clean
- lenses
- 50mm fixed lens - shutter -> 1/100
- telephoto - 28-300mm - shutter -> 1/250
- wide angle - 18mm maximum -> 1/50
- macro - 50mm, 90mm or 180mm ; teleconverter - 1.4 and 2x usually only allow autofocus for f/4 or larger; will lose one stop
- telephoto compressor - 500mm, f/1.7 - use on tele & macro - - shutter > 1/500
- shutter release cord or remote
- tripod / monopod
- blow / brush tool
- microfiber cloth
- battery charger
- card reader
- light meter
- notepad with details for repeatable shots
- checklist / set camera when putting away
Studio Shoot
- flash unit - make sure it has “power ratio” so that you can turn it down to a lower setting, and that it can sync to a fast shutter speed
- reflectors - gold, silver, white
- clean background
- softbox for product shots
Location Shoot / Travel
- waterproof bag
- moisture-absorbent packet
- magnifying light
- extra lens covers
- spare memory cards
- photo storage device (eg MemoryKick)
- compact camera
- spare battery
- gloves, hat
- water repellent zippers
- sunblock
- card saying ‘return to ...’
- business cards
Photo Tips
Camera Handling
- always use UV or skylight filter
- apply cleaning solution to tissue not lens
- have camera cleaned annually
- reformat card, not ‘delete all’ as images on reformatted card are recoverable.
- lens recommendation 50mm prime (f/1.8)
- 80 or 100 focal length = no distortion
- to clean out CCD, turn to manual mode, open shutter, face camera down, remove lens, blow out with bulb, not canned air
- noise reduction off for less time between shots
- hold arms against body and move body, not camera
- 50mm matches human field of view
- less than 24mm produces curvature issues
- shoot blank wall out of focus to see where dust/imperfections are in camera
Aperture
- depth of field
- front push button = depth of field preview
- 3.5 - only object in focus will be clear, other distances fuzzy
- 22 - everything sharp
Shutter Speed
- to prevent blurring, shutter speed should be greater than 1/focal length, increase sensitivity (eg 1/300 for 300mm lens)
- need tripod if shutter < 1/60
- long exposure - custom setting 5 - on ; reduces noise ; use leash ; turn off VR vibration reduction
ISO = sensitivity to light
- use lowest ISO possible
- start getting noise around 800 (depending on camera)
White Balance
- color temperature of existing light
- white balance - prefer ‘cloudy’ - top dial WB + rear dial (camera 3)
- degrees Kelvin
- 8000 = blue white
- 5600 = sunlight
- 3200 = lightbulb
- 1900 = candlelight
- if in raw mode, no white balance bracketing (pencil 11,12):
- ISO=200
- auto white balance
- color mode = auto (camera 7)
- tone compensation = auto (camera 6)
- sharpening = auto (camera 5)
- hue = 0 degrees
Exposure
- exposure wheel
- use gray card to meter correctly - put in spot you want to meter correctly, note/freeze values and use those values when take card away
- bright - f/16 & 1/125
- auto exposure lock
- to meter a dark object w/ light background, move close to subject, meter, get numbers, move back and snap
- over- and under-exposure compensation (+/- button) : +lighten, - darken
- auto exposure lock = off (pencil 15)
- metering : (o) - center; O - spot; circle in square - matrix
- each stop doubles the amount of light
Focus
- focus - af area - single cross; dynamic 5 crosses for moving objects;
- closest subject focus priority (pencil 20, 21)
- to lock focus & exposure, push & hold AE-L/AF-L (pencil 14) or push half way and switch to manual
- focus mode front switch - still (S), moving (C), manual (M)
- hyperfocal distance: 50mm lens - f/16, 17’ away, 8.5’ to infinity in focus; f/5.6, 50’ away, 25’ to infinity in focus
- continuous focus - focus moves with object
- servo focus - subject moving toward you
Light
- natural light best 30 min before and after sunrise or sunset
- overcast = even lighting
- winter sun is softer because of lower angle
- subtractive - adding colors together makes them muddy (eg paint, CMY=black)
- additive - added together makes white (eg light, RGB=white)
- transmission - through water, glass, smoke
- absorption - black absorbs
- reflection - based on surface of object
- diffuse reflection using white paper
- direct reflection using dark glass/mirror - use family of angles to include/exclude light/object - eg lights on framed art at 45 deg from each side, not straight on when taking photo straight on
- if you move a light source 1/4 more away from object, the object will have 1/2 less light
- lighting setups
- main / key light
- short light - main light on part of face turning towards light - makes face look narrow
- broad light - main light on part of face turning away from light - makes face look round
- large diffused
- main light + fill
- backlit - from below, behind subject
- hair light - from behind/below/above
- rim light - from side
- rembrandt / key triangle - light from above at 45 deg
- butterfly - light on either side
- moving larger light closer gives you a softer light
- smaller light = harsher
- ring light - straight on, dark edges
- lighting with umbrella - pull umbrella toward light source until light is not spilling out the side
- flash
- black sides absorb flash white
- flash meter - put under chin
- keep flash duration short to make it crisp
- to avoid red eye, flash should be 2” from lens for every 5’ from subject
- strobes - start shutter at 1/125, then look at histogram to figure out how to adjust
- lightmeter
- reflective - measures light reflected off object - use for dark scene
- incident - measures direct light falling on object - use for one-object focus
- average - averages over large area
- center weighted - uses values in center
- spot meter - use for primary object
Filters
- yellow filter makes everything slightly darker, yellow will appear slightly lighter ; use if too much contrast, want blues darker
- green filter makes reds darker, green lighter
- red filter makes blue & green darker, red lighter, skin lighter, use for landscapes
- blue filter makes sky panchromatic
- polarizing filter cuts glare, darker, more contrast ; pulls down exposure 2 stops
- neutral density filter - so you can take really long exposures (8min+) without blowing out the highlights; one way to make - get welding mask glass, glue to rim to make filter; cuts light reaching film overall by 1-2 stops
- filters absorb the light of the compliment - makes compliment darker
Studio Backdrop
- keep subject as far away from background as possible to avoid showing wrinkles and shadows
- use papers for background, eg papyrus
Computer Considerations
- important to calibrate monitor - white = 255-255-255; black = 0-0-0, gray = 128-128-128; #s above 245 will print as white, below 20 will print as black; white point target 6000K- 6500K
- ICC profiles - match camera to monitor to printer ; Adobe RGB superset of sRGB ; www.hutchcolor.com ; www.chromix.com ; www.colormall.com ; www.rodsandcones.com
- HDR - min 3 exposures, can use exposure bracketing ; expose 1 for inside/shadows, expose 1 for outside/brights, expose 1 for ‘normal’ capture ; keep camera in same spot, aperture consistent; photomatix software or photoshop
- bit depth = tonal subtlety ; bits per pixel ; 1 bit = black & white ; 8 bits = greyscale ; 24 bit = jpeg color ; 48 bit = raw color
Location Tips
- instead of zoom, walk toward subject
- if shooting from car, can use beanbag on open window
- on tripod, put mirror up. wait a sec, then take pic -> makes image very crisp
- captions, model releases, active folks, elders, hi tech, sports, couples, families
Composition
Principles of Design
- balance
- symmetrical
- radial - around a central point
- asymmetrical
- color, shape, focus
- tense vs casual tones
- balance of interest - foreground vs background; big & small
- points of reference for size (or not)
- structure
- formal / informal
- visible / invisible
- interrelationships of forms - detachment, touching, overlapping, interpenetration, union, subtraction, intersection, scale, proportion
- proximity
- hierarchy, emphasis/subordination, focal point, center of interest, dominance
- repetition & rhythm
- recurring, repetitious, nonrandom variation
- keeps eye circulating
- architectural
- contrast
- anomaly, contrast, conflict, opposition
- unity
- cohesion, consistency, oneness, coherence, integration
- scale / proportion
- directional forces
- clarity, color, composition
Aesthetics
- line emphasis - contour, actual, implied ; horizontal = stability ; vertical = assertiveness ; diagonal = movement ; leading lines
- shape repetition - geometric : rectilinear (straight intersection), curvilinear (curving intersect); organic - biomorphic (resembling biological entity), amorphic (not derived from nature or geometry); positive (what you focus on) or negative (what’s left over)
- value - lightness / darkness ; hi key, low key; white ->pure hue->black ; complimentary color 1 -> dulled -> complimentary color 2 ; contrast - degree of difference between shades of gray; emphasis & subordination ; value more important than color ; high key = light value print ; low key = moody, dark value print
- texture - actual/tactile = rough, smooth, hard, sharp; visual - use line & color ; use side lighting to capture
- 4 layers of texture to be interesting
- color
- eye goes to lightest spot
- R-O-Y-G-B-Violet
- analogous colors - use one before and one after with primary color = harmonious
- complimentary - opposite colors on the color wheel - pop
- warm - moves toward you
- cold - recedes
- local color - under normal light
- optical color - perception of color
- soothing - monochrome, different shades of the same color
- color sense
- black - authority, grieving, serious, stable, strong
- white - purity, cleanliness, safety, neutrality, creativity
- gray - practicality, timeless, solid
- red - attention, movement, excitement, life
- pink - calming
- blue - calming, steadfastness, wisdom, loyalty, focus, too much = cold
- green - growth, nature, money, light green = calming, envy, good luck, generosity, fetility, peace, harmony, support
- yellow - cheerfulness, happiness, optimism (not too bright)
- orange - fun, happy, energetic, ambitious
- purple - wealth, prosperity, sophistication, mystery, wisdom, respect
- brown - reliability, stability, friendship, mourning=India
- color wheel:
- space
- point of view - worm’s eye view, bird’s eye view, fore shortening - distorted if object starts close and lays away
- fore shortening
- perspective
- figure-ground relationship
- foreground normally positive space, background generally negative space
- subtended angle - parallel parallel lines in distance don’t look parallel /
- angle/distance from subject to viewer
- thru texture gradients, brightness, color saturation, warm vs cool; overlapping = collage
- reflections in composition
- incongruent background
- fill the frame with subject
- rule of thirds - points of interest should be where lines intersect: divide frame into horizontal 1/3’s - top, middle, bottom; put horizon in top 1/3 for day shot unless sky is significant. Not in middle
- determine framing based on what’s going on in the edges, not what’s in the middle
- framing - camera tilt, shooting down, horizontal vs vertical
- slimming - shoot from above, neck out
- simplicity - single focal point
- incorporate depth - use angles and diagonal line, run eye across frame with diagonal line
- time & motion
- kinetic vs implied - viewer infers motion
- subjects entering photo with space in front of them, to indicate/show where they are going, leading space
Quality of Light
- diffused - no/soft shadows, low contrast
- direct - hard shadows, high contrast
- brightness - luminance values
- use multiple kinds of light
- high key - mostly light, low contrast, diffused
- low key - dark tones prominent, high contrast, edge lighting
- put sun in right or left, not center
- shine light through vase
- sun should be behind or on the side of photographer
- light & form unexpected intersection
Concepts to Depict
- perspective - have one
- focus on motivation, message
- ambiguity
- find your voice
- make art about what you know
- literal vs symbolic/figurative interpretations of a theme
- juxtaposition - one thing next to another suggests third thing
- metaphor - one thing makes you think of another
- synecdoche - part to whole relationship
- metonomy - associations are triggered
- meme - meanings and messages culturally transmitted over time, between generations
- how things look vs how things are
- displace an item/person in an environment that is opposite of their natural one
- challenge - find beauty in shot when subject is not
- environmental portrait - putting a person in context of their interests / job
- identity transfer into object
- symbolism
- meaning
- intention
- impact
- theme
- representation
- narrative
Jewelry Photography
Tips:
→ wear neutral colored clothes with patterns so that you are not obvious in any reflections → when possible, use natural light instead of side lights - set up softbox outside on sunny day → if not in the sun, use 2 diffused lights on sides, one direct light from where camera is (that can move around) → use a ring lightlight from front to flatten defects → set lights at angles to heighten sparkle → colored acrylic platform - shine focused light through diffuser directly onto the acrylic to give it that soft spotlight look → make sure background is smooth, no cracks, gaps or creases → set aperture about f/9 to capture entire piece, f/5 for close ups of specific features → if using telephoto, have it half way open
Equipment:
√ SLR camera √ good lens with decent zoom, suggest 16-85mm √ tripod √ softbox √ ring light and/or 'sparkler' √ acrylic or glass platforms √ opaque platform √ material for backdrop √ use dental wax or museum/prop wax to hold up pieces on a hard platform √ empty mat (from picture framing) with 2 strings of fishing line strung across (clipped), one to hang earrings the other to pull the bottom forward
Pricing averages in San Diego (2013)
∞ $25 - $40 per piece up to 10 photos ∞ $10 per piece (min 10) for simple 1-view shot
For examples, please see my website:
Real Estate Photography
Technique:
→ wear neutral colored clothes with patterns so that you are not obvious in any reflections → camera should be about 4' off the floor → make sure house is orderly - livable but lack of clutter → turn on all lights in house → when possible, use natural light - best if light outside is roughly the same as lighting inside → best lighting/color about 20 minutes before/after sunset , also good lighting if it is cloudy → set aperture about f/11 for best results in room shots → use bracketed exposure shots for best chance of getting single shot and also to use in HDR post processing (D100: pencil 11 AE, BKT AE, rotate til '3F 1.0' for 3 shots each 1 stop off) → use polarizing filter for daytime outdoor shots → use Photoshop File -> Automate -> Photomerge to put a few pictures shot down a line together panorama-style, especially useful for small spaces → use Photoshop Edit -> Transform -> Perspective or Warp to line up walls vertically, especially if using wide angle lens or if you merged multiple photos together → if sky is gray and you can't reshoot on a sunny day, in Photoshop, use magic wand to select sky, then click on styles window -> chiseled sky; then use paint bucket to fill → use Photomatix to create HDR photos
Equipment:
√ SLR camera √ wide angle lens - preferably 10mm or 12mm max √ polarizing filter √ tripod √ monopod to lift up to get 'aerial' shot of property √ 1000 watt soft box light √ up to 4 speedlights, Nikon SB-80DX recommended √ HDR software - Photomatix recommended
Pricing averages in San Diego (2013)
∞ up to 2000 ft² $150, -> 3000 ft² $200 -> 4000 ft² $250 ∞ add virtual tour $50 ∞ add single page website incl custom domain name ($20+$10/mo), with realtor badge ∞ floor plan with links to photos
For examples, please see my website: